Yes, I'm still alive. Mostly.
It's been a busy spring/summer collection, between the deportation woes and the incompetent new boss and the computer meltdown.
As the flooded streets and the gas riots - and that's just my block - attest, this is kinda a crappy year for all of us, huh?
(BTW, why am I getting loads of hits when I haven't even posted for like a decade?)
Friday, June 20, 2008
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Yangjingbang Yingyu
| Aiyah! The savvy lingo of old Shanghai |
| By Pan Xiaoyi 2008-4-29 |
ONE of the intangible artifacts of old Shanghai is very much alive. It's yangjingbang English, the city's first, snappy business lingo. You could use it to wrap up a deal, talk to the ayi or ask for a kai si - kiss, writes Pan Xiaoyi.
Ha pi" is a popular word among young people today. Pronounced in Shanghai dialect, it sounds like "happy" - it also means happy - and is a common example of fashionable pidgin English. It's called yangjingbang English.
Yangjingbang English originated in the Yangjingbang area of old Shanghai, now Yan'an Road E. very close to the Bund. As a small tributary of the Huangpu River, Yangjingbang was insignificant. However, once it became the boundary between the bustling French Concession and British Concession in 1848, it became a household word.
That's because of the mixture of English and Chinese for fast, snappy, short-hand communication that became known as yangjingbang English. Some was imported from Canton, with Indian and Portuguese influences. Shanghainese absorbed it and developed their own language.
Today yangjingbang - the city's original business English - still turns up in daily life. The term can also refer to popular new words.
Terms include pai si (pass), ba shi (bus), shui men ting (cement), and re shui ting (steam).
Huang Aiguo, born in the 1950s, grew up near Yangjingbang area and recalls his father speaking yangjingbang English in Shanghai dialect. "He would say someone has a beautiful fan si (face) or she is such a mo deng (modern) lady."
Yangjingbang flowed west from the Bund toward Zhoujin (now Xizang Road S.). It was called Yangjingbang because it flowed past the Yangjing Harbor. Many cargo ships and ferries from the suburbs anchored at Sanyangjing Bridge. Ships docked with cargoes from India, Japan, Europe and the United States; the freight was carried inland. Freight from south of the Yangtze River was shipped outward.
Business boomed. Foreign companies poured in: banks, bourses, trading companies, insurance companies, retailers of all kinds. Chinese companies prospered as well.
Chinese middlemen hustled along the riverbank and made business possible between Chinese and Westerners who spoke no Chinese. Compradors were the Chinese managers of big mercantile establishments.
Office clerks in foreign companies often talked a lot with brokers and suppliers in pidgin English. It combined English and Chinese elements to communicate between English and Chinese speakers.
Huang reminisces about his father who worked for Sincere & Co Ltd, one of the four famous department stores at that time.
"When my father played with us, he would say, 'qing nong chi lan hu mian.' Lan hu mian literally means over-cooked noodles. Pronounced in Shanghainese, it sounds like 'love me.' So qing nong chi lan hu mian means 'Please love me.'
"Sometimes neighbors might say 'I saw them da kai si (kiss)' when gossiping about lovers," he continues.
Pidgin English originated in Guangzhou (then Canton), the first Treaty Port and major trading center. At first foreign business men showed little interest in learning Chinese, and the Chinese government punished those who taught Chinese to foreigners.
Thus pidgin (the Cantonese pronunciation of "business") came into being, effective business English that didn't sweat the grammar or pronunciation.
After Shanghai was opened as one of five "Treaty Ports," foreign businessmen swarmed in. Pidgin English developed into yangjingbang English, the coin of the commercial realm.
English speakers also used yangjingbang English with servants at home, waiters in hotels and restaurants, coolies (also yangjingbang English, from Chinese ku li meaning laborer) pulling rickshaws, and others. Children were cared for by Chinese amahs (ayi).
Local famed author Chen Danyan writes of yangjingbang English in her latest book (in Chinese), "Images and Legends of the Shanghai Bund."
There was a joke that a chef told his mistress in yangjingbang English, "Twenty dollar one month, eat you, sleep you." Actually he meant his employer should pay him US$20 a month and provide food and lodging.
Other interesting examples:
An expat returned home one day to find broken drinking glasses and asked his servant. "Inside zhi-zhi-zhi, outside miao-miao-miao, glass guang-lang-dang," the man said. It turned out that the cat tried to catch the darting mouse and crashed into the glassware.
One day, the boss of a foreign firm asked his driver to buy a film ticket. The man returned empty-handed, saying: "People mountain people sea, today no see, tomorrow see, tomorrow see, same see." It actually meant there was a huge crowd of people and tickets were sold out until the next day.
One foreigner took silk to a tailor and "localized" his English: "My have got one piece plenty handsome silk; my want you make one nice evening dress." (Simply: "I have a very nice piece of silk and want you to make a nice evening dress.")
Yangjingbang English is evolving as white collars are keen to coin their own words. For example, jia bei qing nong (deep feelings) refers to cappucino. If pronounced in Shanghai dialect, it sounds like "cappucino."
Similarly, ai shi jia bei qing nong (love signifies deep feelings), means iced cappucino. Some are both humorous and vivid such as huo shi bi dao (bad things happen), for hospital in Shanghai dialect.
Chinglish translated directly from Shanghai dialect is also very popular among young people. For instance, "old three and old four" (lao san lao si), meaning being arrogant and "no three no four" (bu san bu si), meaning nonsense.
Though some terms are still widely used, not many people know the origins of yangjingbang English. The river itself has disappeared. When the river became too polluted, authorities in the French and British concessions decided to fill it in and pave over the waterway.
In 1915, the new road was named Avenue Eduard VII after the British monarch. Big buildings went up. In swarmed more business. Now, Yan'an Road is still the main downtown east-west road.
"I can still hear white collars walking out of their offices on Yan'an Road speaking yangjingbang English and mixing Chinese with English," Huang says.
The old lingo lingers
Ang san (on sale)
Originally out-dated or low-quality goods, which deceived customers and led them to buy "bargains" that were "on sale." It came to mean an outwardly good person who actually is mean-spirited.
Sometimes it refers to a difficult situation in which one tells lies to make it more acceptable to others.
Hun qiang shi (take a chance)
It is sometimes said that someone takes a chance, or is a risk-taker in doing careless work or being lazy and relying on others to do the job.
Sha gen (shocking)
Similar to "extremely." Describes something that is very good, so good that it is startling.
Describing price, it indicates something extremely low.
Luo song tang (Russian soup, borscht)
Old Shanghainese called Russians luo song. After the October Revolution in 1917, many Russians fled to Shanghai.
They brought many products including luosong tang, luosong mianbao (Russian bread), luosong mao (Russian hat), among others.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Home-age
Driving past my and Jifu's old Xinkezhan, through the disorderly traffic to my Fazujie home Huilonghui, I appreciate how much of a home this city is to me. My life, my community, my work, my routines, my friends: Shanghai is more home to me than anywhere else I have ever lived in my no longer that short life.
The Silver Lining attaches mewlingly as soon as I come through the door. He had hidden from catsitter Yi the whole week I was in exile in Hong Kong. He and I are two happy pussies right now.
I feel loved on other fronts as well. Well, useful at least. Zendai Museum calling to confirm my attendence of their forum and dinner Sunday. Friends recruiting me for help on various projects, magazines wanting copy, PR companies arranging coverage...okay, I'm not so much loved as useful - but I can live with that. "[Vixen]! Where HAVE you been?!" the conversations begin. Yeah, sorry for not issuing a press release every time I get deported.
The next few days will be madness; today was my token window of decompression. Two days of a luxury forum I'm covering, then an art symposium where I'm supposed to speak, then scrambling Beijing-wards for Yohji Yamamoto and Jimmy Choo. I'm hoping I can also stick abouts long enough to catch a day or two of Midi, but...the pussy is giving me this *look*, and I never want to leave home, ever ever again.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Mobs in exile
A hundred or so people queued up and shoved in for the 7:30pm pickup; at 8 the doors opened. Squish. I finally got near the front, and a space opened up. I tried to squeeze in, as did a 40ish Australian guy. "Bitch," he complained as he elbowed me in the tit, offended that I as a small female did not immediately bow to his precedence as a large male, "where's your manners?" I didn't push back, just didn't move either. I, and the Aussie asshole, were amongst the fourty people told to come back after 9:30.
In the meanwhile, I got a beer from a 7-11 and wandered back to the waterfront, catching the utterly tacky light/music show, ignoring the equally tacky display of Fuwa lanterns. I leaned over the rails, appreciating the view of the Central skyline, contemplating what will become of me and how I can sort out this mess.
A Hong Kong Chinese man, perhaps late 30s, accosted me for the time, then made conversation. I no doubt stood out as the only person there not frantically photographing myself. He wanted to know whether I was a tourist, where I'm from, what I did. Not really, Shanghai, and the same semi-truth on my visa application. I wondered whether he was hitting on me or spying on me.
Back at CTS at 9:15, but the wait stretched almost until 11. An older, Mandarin-speaking Japanese gentleman lurking next to me chatted in the meanwhile with the harried attendent. From their conversation, I learned how lucky I am - today is the last day 30 day visas will be issued; starting tomorrow, it's 14 day stays only, and several nationalities (Indian, not sure what else) are banned entirely.
Fuck. That has been my reaction to this entire ludicrous ordeal, but the fucks just keep escalating.
Thus, as batches came in without my passport among them, I waxed quite nervous. The Japanese gentleman and I commiserated in Mandarin. Finally, after politely ceding counter space to each other, we both finally received ours, and shook hands and bowed in congratulations.
I have been down in Hong Kong temporarily sorting out my visa woes. It's a long story, and remains far from resolved. I'll try to elaborate eventually, but it is just such a nightmare dealing with that I have little time or energy to put it into writing. China seems intent on purging itself of many of its foreign nationals, for reasons we can only speculate upon. As a self-employed/part-timer for several different companies, on an F visa, I am feeling the brunt of this. However, today's reduction of the maximum stay makes me feel lucky to be ahead of the curve. Surviving in China requires a continued ability to stay there.
Monday, March 24, 2008
In-Stable
I'm worried about the riots. I'm worried that even if this is the end of this round, what will come will be worse.
Because, I'm worried that I live in the most unstable place imagineable.
I'm worried about the "expats" who cornered me at the for foreigners, by foreigners lit fest to crow that it's just like Old Shanghai - as if it was a good thing. (Sorry for the one of you who is taken out of context here.) Yeah, because neocolonial entitlement and oblivion while Rome - or Shanghia, or L!asa - burns is such a good thing.
I'm worried about the inflation, the cost of living, the spiraling food and housing prices, and especially the latter feuled by foreigners (including overseas Chinese) who have injected the American, European and Hong Kong bubbles into Shanghai. I'll take the brown air particles anytime over that sort of pollution. Walking home from an interview today, I glaced over property listings in several windows - rental prices are in many cases up 200-500% from a year ago. And maybe it's only coincidence the throngs of gawky-eyed whities with *mug me* on their foreheads that I simultaneously see wandering by - but maybe not.
I'm worried about the crackdown on visas that is particularly aimed at small-time, self-employed operators like myself. Deportation has me awake at night, almost as much as...
I'm worried about the mass slaughter of cats in Beijing, to "clean it up" for the oilympics, and especially that it might come here and claim my Silver Lining. Which would make me kill the people trying to hurt him, and thus be executed myself.
I am worried about my health, which has been a phlegmy mess all year, first the flu and bronchitis, now a chronic cold from the China lung.
I worry about my book, which is behind schedule, about my weight loss going slower than anticipated, that it may be easier and more probable that I will really truly fail than that I will ever really truly be as I want to be.
So I proceed to call up Gym Boy, for the first time this year. I...have been meaning too, and tried once before but his phone was out of range. But, I was meaning to finally formally break it off - in fact I want to set him up with my friends; instead, it is reassuring to have someone fussing that I have been sick - why didn't I tell him, he'd have brought me drugs and soup? It is nice to have someone who wants to come over, clean your house in his undies, and cook you things. Not to mention be a buffer and translator between the sometimes craziness that is China. The thing about Gym Boy, is even when we've stopped fucking, even if he's with someone else, he's a good guy and is there for me. Which - is nice, and which I'm not sure I could say for Jifu, let along Yaya or Ah Ren.
Thursday, March 06, 2008
Neighbors and friends
Which of my neighbors is it? There are a lot of elderly residents here, but most of them are as homebound as I am. Of the older neighbors, only a few stop to chat frequently, the rest may nod and smile but prefer to watch the neighborhood mascot than to engage.
Coming in, the aimiable Mr. Combover across and one door, 1F, over was shooing at the resident roof pidgeons with, prodding them with a long bamboo pool. "They're yours?" I asked. "I always thought they were wild," attracted by the birdseed spilled by the caged bird collection of directly across, 2F. They of the myna bird that yells "Hello!" at me whenever I head out, and I suspect is honing his "Wei!" into a "Wei, Laowai!" (Which, of course, is my Chinese name - Wei Laowai.) Also they of the propensity for late night nudity, which is way more than I need to see. Mr. Combover is the new boyfriend or second husband of the former Crazy Divorcee - rather crazy and bitter when her husband of thirty years took all the money and left with a younger woman a few yars back, but now she's quite calm and sane so I need a new nickname for her. She's one of my friendliest neighbors, invites me ballroom dancing with her. I would love to accept, but she goes at 6am. Err. They invite me into their cluttered, cozy courtyard to show me their pidgeon hutch and to chatter about their birds.
This afternoon had my second photo shoot of the week. Kinda...over-shot. This time at least they didn't want me in it, so I could ignore them and work. Tuesday was of me - for this American magazine doing a silly article to the extent of, "Omigod! Caucasians in China!" - but the photographer was quite good, and also pretty cool. She has a very painterly sensibility, and plays with the light amazingly, but does not flatter her subjects. I expect the shots will be beautiful, brutal and true...and will make me look like the pasty blob I can sometimes be.
Another interview last night for a French magazine story on "China" - oy - arranged by a contact of Yi's. Today was also an Yi set up, promo shots for a laowai musician friend of hers. Today's photographer was also quite good, I'm surprised I hadn't met or heard of her before, but her stuff is more an Annie Lebowitzy mix of glamourized and grit. She wants to come back and do a shoot of me and the entire house, and it will be interesting to compare her shots with Tuesday's.
Knowing Yi, I should have not been surprised that her foreign musician friend was a tall, cute, black guy. But I am always surprised by black people - they're birds even more exotic here than we pinkies. That, and I am a bit racist, not in a deliberate or malicious sense, just that I have never gotten used to being around black people. What with the SoCal and the Ivy League and the China combo. It's rather how I used to be around gays, uncertain how to act, having to remind myself to act normal, to not be nervous or gawk or say anything obnoxious. Which ensures that I act far from normal, and am nervous and gawk and say obnoxious things. Until I've gotten to know and used to the person, and viscerally adjust. And the gays, I'm quite used to now, after protracted exposure. While white folk seem odder to me every passing day.
The Chinese "stare at funny-looking people" factor doesn't help either. Granted, I do that to everyone now. Still, it's bad. And I don't know how to "fix" that, because the more I try to the more I invite the awkward. Hence, perhaps admitting it is the best way to deal with it.
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Who are you people?
I routinely get like 15-30 hits a day, and know who they are based on comments y'all make to me off-site.
So, when I start getting hits in the hundreds, I start to worry. While I write this for my friends, I am fine with random strangers reading it. However, I am not willing for acquaintences, colleagues and the general Shanghai public to start reading this and figure out who it's an alter-ego for. If I want to be that public with my personal life, dammit, I'll write a book and at least get paid for it.
Anyhow. Kellara's visiting this weekend, and hopefully this time won't drag me to Brazillian BBQ (always fun for us herbavores) and Windows with her horrible ayi-raping expat pals. She promises not. All three of my emigrated-to-England friends are visiting soon, so yay to that.
Also: Spring!!!!
Saturday, February 09, 2008
Holiday lull
When one sleeps until noon, the afternoon slips effortlessly away. Had a good crowd over for martinis last night, but today recovering. The Silver Lining is also quite conked out after the enforced socialization.
At martinis: a Dutch photographer, Italian and Shanghainese filmmakers, Shanghainese-Malaysian-British writer and historian Ling, Northern Chinese gallery owner Plum, food writer Cloudy and her chef husband, a Finnish journalist and her actor boyfriend, a Belgian artist, and my adorable little assistant and her friend. It was fun getting to expose Xiao Wen to my friends, she's so earnest and smart and cute, and I think she enjoyed herself after a spell of initial nervousness. Cloudy and I had fun watching her and her friend accross the room: Xiao Wen chatting animatedly with the historian - who is a very cool, impressive, sophisticated grand dame - and her friend between them looking lost and miserable. I think Xiao Wen's friend is made of the same substance as my cat.
I was really glad that Ling came, and seemed to have fun. She is the best writer in Shanghai as well as a very impressive and fascinating person, and is not the biggest social butterfly so is a bit hard to get to know. I am a big fan, and it would be great if she becomes more of a friend and mentor.
You know, I am pretty confident of myself, but I still get all giddy when people I admire, the people I think are way cool and so look up to, like and befriend me. It goes both ways, I suppose, like how I enjoy watching and hopefully helping shape Xiao Wen and other cool younger women (and some young men too, but mostly keeping it to the cunthood).
Thursday night I went to a dinner party at a cosmetics mogul's house, and despite it being a swank place with a lot of swank people, it was a very mellow and friendly affair. It lacked the prepostorous pretentions of "Diamond Ho's" parties, which sinks under the weight of her self-importance. I met a lot of people who were really nice and interesting, and that they are titans of industry and mainstream media rather than the literati bohemians I usually run made for a nice change.
I bumped into a Taiwanese-American acquaintence who I have met many times but don't really know, and she plopped me with her Shanghainese mother-in-law, like Ling one of those lao ling Lao Sanghei women I so enjoy and admire. We had a fun chat comparing Shanghai to Taiwan to California. I am reminded how much I need to make a pilgrimage to Taiwan, that strange little place that has been a conduit of most of my nearest and dearest, as well as of many a passing acquaintence. Ah, the Taiwanese! The Mainlander vs Taiwese-Taiwanese rivalries, the psychological abuse particularly of their male children, their neuroses about "Chinese"ness, their Japanese/KMT facist anality, their hostility towards us whities and...everyone. The place seems fascinatingly fucked up, and yet has produced about so many of the people I love. There is something about Taiwan.
I ended up sitting with this lovely old lady again at dinner, along with her teenage daughters. The younger, 13, was more my sort of girl: chubby and quirky and geekish. But I was sitting next to the older, 16, who was a tall skinny superficial, popular babe in the making. I was astonished that we got along great. She's so so SoCal, a spoiled little expat teenager at the American School, but turned out to nonetheless to be a cool person. She's angsting over college aps, and wanted to pick my brain about getting into and attending Brown.
She is really infatuated with the idea of being in a sorority, based on watching US tv and movies. I hope I helped talk her out of it: she's the sort of pretty, perky young woman who would be embraced by that world, but I think it shapes people quite negatively. (I was an RA sophomore year, and my 50 charges were placed between a frat and a sorority with like twenty members each, and despite our paying the same or more for our board they had about five times the residential resources we did. Because, in my day at least, the greek system, which was 10% of the Brown student body, was 95% of the student government. So, in my Junior and Senior years, I went out for student government, was on both the general student council and the residential council.) Honestly: they are useful networks, but at the cost of conformity and cliqueishness and secrecy. Not all haze, make you strip to skivvies and circle your flab in permanent marker, not all kick out their fat or non-white members, there are all sorts of sororities. But, by being in one, you declare yourself as a certain sort of person, and that...shapes you.
Brown had an International House, which several of my friends joined. It was a good community for international and transcultural students, and was a very warm tolerant laid-back environment. It was also a year-to-year thing, rather than a three-year commitment like the greek houses, and their events were open to and encouraging of guests. They also took ordinary Americans, as long as they had suitably globalist outlooks. After the racial indifference of my SoCal high-school, the whitey-hating of the Taiwanese- and Chinese-Americans at Brown was pretty upsetting; my friends weren't of that bent but they had friends who were. But the international students were very diverse and accepting and cool.
By the end of dinner, before the cherry stem tying competition, I had convinced (I hope!) that an International House or equivalent would be a better fit for a Shanghainese-Taiwanese-Californian expat brat than most sororities. And then we discussed "Ugly Betty" and its portrayal of fashion journalism.
On New Year's eve, I bao-ed jiaozi at Plum's house. Much fun, but wow Plum really only hangs out with foreigners! Apart from her, the only other Chinese in attendence was a married-to-a-whitey and lived abroad, and their two mothers. The Northern mamas and I did all of the dumpling work, but since my roomie Happy's jiaozi parties in college, I love making dumplings, find it comforting, although the mamas kicked my ass in terms of skill and efficiency.
Ah Ren was there, and as always I blathered nervously at him, to his good-natured amusement. He has become my social comfort zone, he feels to me warm and dry and safe. Crushage aside, I have become so immensely fond of him, and really enjoy his presence. He was off to the US the next day, and will be there several months. Hopefully enough time for me to get over him and/or lose enough weight that he sees me as a hottie not a meimei. He almost moved back to the US this time, but decided not yet; personally, I want him to stick him around, but he does seem rather at loose ends angsting over where to go, what to do. For his own sake, I wish he would just pick a place, any place, and start putting down some roots, but I suspect he's still recovering from being very rooted but unhappily so in Beijing.
Mmm, I have stuff I should do today, but nothing I have to do. Recipe for more martinis and a late afternoon nap. I shall start another detox spree tomorrow, combined with some power writing and a date to hit the reopened gym with Cloudy, but today is for hair of dog martinis and maybe an afternoon nap.
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
'Things humans do'
"So one day, I walk in on him masturbating."
So, one night I watch a foreign - American - film that shames masturbation.
But: only male masturbation.
Seriously, are American women like this? Do they mind if their male partners wank? Really? To me, a man who wanks is sexually interested and inspired. While I may hope to be on the receiving end much of the time, I should hope he has a lively imagination, and I should hope that he is not using my body to vent that imagination, I should hope that he has and takes the sexual space to go at his own pace. And I should hope he respects the same for me.
I love to masturbate. I will go weeks without it, but there are days when I have a good four goes. There is nothing like a good 3pm wank followed by a half hour power nap to stimulate (sorry) the creative juices. Nothing nicer to wake up to, and nothing better to fall asleep to.
I waxy religious about two things: One is exercise. Two is masturbation. Okay, okay, music and languages too...three and four. But, less preachy there. I think people should wank without apologies. 1. It is fun. 2. It is safe sex. 3. It lets one explore a richness of sexual and social fantasy that one never would in real life. Real life sex is beauty, messy, juicy, often awkward, never perfect but sometimes so better than perfect. As Ah Ren put it, it is "something humans do". That line may be the most I remember him for.
Few women masturbate. Or at least admit it. We are so discouraged, and lack the subvert encouragement men receive. When did you last see a crack about women's under-mattress porn stash?
Let us call masturbation personalized sexuality. I cherish my with-partner sexuality, it encapsulates the core of my emotional life, and many a great orgasm. There are many things I can only do with a partner in pleasantness. But there are also many things I can only do alone. Continuing the above, 4. Pace. The logistics of partner sex requires a great deal of timing. When wanking, you come when and at the rhythm you desire.
Women should wank more. I would be the last person to say I own my sexuality. Too much childhood fundi christian baggage for that! But wanking is wonderful. It saddens me how few of my gal pals know how to masturbate, that it takes the misinformation/advertorial a la sex and the city for most of us to brave and buy little friends
I discovered my personal sexuality not so much from the BMW-driving hunky half-Arab as from the blocked out channels on my grandparents' cable in highschool, combined with the lovely contours of couch and crotch. I have been a happier woman since. I love toys, but I just need my underwear.
There is much I can scapegoat; but sexual frustration has never been my demon.

